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chefrob1027
05-26-2016, 06:38 PM
Hello, so I acquired a 120 gal for free with the mention that it needed a reseal. Upon further inspection most of the bottom structural seal is missing so I'm looking to completely dismantle the glass and build it over again. My original plan was to use RTV 108, as I planned to just redo the entire inner seal but as I've never done a structural seal like this before I'm curious to know if I'll need something with a stronger bond to hold the glass in place then continue with the original plan. This is an older 6x2x2 120 with approx 1/2 glass on the outer panels I haven't personally taken measurements yet as it started to rain while i was stripping silicone today. But any help here from you DIY guys and gals would be greatly appreciated.

LizStreithorst
05-27-2016, 11:41 AM
I broke down and built a new 100 gallon that dropped as I was trying to work it up the steps by myself. The front pane cracked. I used GE silicone #1. I used the trim pieces to make sure I had everything square and then clamps to hold it tight to cure. I was pretty much a newbie back then. I'd never even resealed a tank before. It is now 13 years later and the tank is still holding water.

I understand that there is a stronger silicone than GE #1. I don't know what it's called. It may be what you plan to use.

chefrob1027
05-27-2016, 03:30 PM
I haven't had to do a tank this large before so I want to be sure before I do it. I was thinking RTV in joints and aquarium silicone on inside seams. There isn't much info out there about doing structural joints unfortunately

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LizStreithorst
05-27-2016, 04:18 PM
I think you will be fine with GE silicone #1 but if spending more money will make you feel more secure, go for it.

chefrob1027
05-27-2016, 05:49 PM
My concern is with GE 1 being a sealant, not an adhesive. RTV 108 on the other hand is said to be both. And I'm all for bargain shopping, since I've built my whole hatchery with second hand tanks and DIY projects. But if a few extra bucks saves a huge headache and thousands of dollars in fish and equipment. Cause we know it's never a convenient fail of a large tank. This is why I'm looking for this so have done this before, I have but on a much smaller tank, largest being a 36 bow front.

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Mugwump
05-28-2016, 04:41 AM
My concern is with GE 1 being a sealant, not an adhesive. RTV 108 on the other hand is said to be both. And I'm all for bargain shopping, since I've built my whole hatchery with second hand tanks and DIY projects. But if a few extra bucks saves a huge headache and thousands of dollars in fish and equipment. Cause we know it's never a convenient fail of a large tank. This is why I'm looking for this so have done this before, I have but on a much smaller tank, largest being a 36 bow front.

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I've used this with good success....
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/cntct_silicone/overview/Loctite-Clear-Silicone-Waterproof-Sealant.htm

chefrob1027
05-28-2016, 09:11 PM
I've used this with good success....
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/cntct_silicone/overview/Loctite-Clear-Silicone-Waterproof-Sealant.htm

Thank you Mudwump,
Are you speaking of the Outer or inner seal? Something this large? I'm sorry I'm a bit new to this large a tank so I just want to be sure that the adhesive is solid. I'm not completely sure if it matters by tank size or if it's all the same and the glass takes the majority of the pressure. Call me a newbie if you'd like I'm just looking for the know how of someone who's been down this road before.

terrapins
05-29-2016, 04:00 PM
I think you will be fine with GE silicone #1 but if spending more money will make you feel more secure, go for it.

It's what I use and with very good results too..... I have never found the need to undo the glass-to-glass seal since this does the job on tanks with leaks; i.e. broken seals.

chefrob1027
05-29-2016, 04:18 PM
It's missing half the joint seal and inner seal, it was asked in an out building so it was all dry rotted

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LizStreithorst
05-29-2016, 05:31 PM
Use what you are most comfortable using. Let the silicone cure for 24 hrs, fill the tank with water and let it sit for a week or two until you're comfortable putting the tank in place. I don't understand why you're stressing so. I replaced a side panel on a 120 twice. It always sprung a leak. Then I examined the replacement glass. It had one soft edge and one hard square edge. I reversed the panel on my third try. tank has been holding water ever since. Trust me, this is not a big deal. I can't come hold your hand through the rebuild because I live in Mississippi.

chefrob1027
05-29-2016, 05:46 PM
Where are you when you did it? Looking for answers, I'm not the type to just slap something together with whatever is on sale at Walmart sorry. I could be wrong but I thought that's what this whole forum was about.... Am I missing something out just being confronted with some reason I've never been interested in being apart of one. I'm not sure it matters at this point but yea... Thanks

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terrapins
05-29-2016, 10:25 PM
It's missing half the joint seal and inner seal,

Here's what you do:



Scrape out ALL the silicon from joints and in the process, make sure no thin layer of old silicon remains. Run your finger thru the scraped glass and feel whether any silicon is left. You can use fine steel wool to remove any.



Clean the areas where silicon will touch using acetone. Run your finger through it once again to ensure there isn't any silicon left. Since your finger may oil it, clean it one last time with acetone.



Cut a tiny opening on the silicon applicator nozzle and run a bead on the missing silicon area. Use your finger to work it into the space. Do a second pass with silicon then slide your finger until the space is filled.



Cut the nozzle to the proper bead size then apply silicon on all 8 joints (4 corners + 4 base-to-side corners).



Tool the laid out silicon immediately beginning with the joint that you fixed prior.



Let it cure for 5 days with the tank covered to be sure it's fully dry. Once you uncover it, there should not be any whiff of vinegar.



Fill tank with water and let it sit for a week to ensure it doesn't leak.


Only break it down completely if the above doesn't work. Re-assembling a tank that size from scratch is very difficult work so if you can avoid it, avoid it at all costs.

Mugwump
05-30-2016, 04:31 AM
Thank you Mudwump,
Are you speaking of the Outer or inner seal? Something this large? I'm sorry I'm a bit new to this large a tank so I just want to be sure that the adhesive is solid. I'm not completely sure if it matters by tank size or if it's all the same and the glass takes the majority of the pressure. Call me a newbie if you'd like I'm just looking for the know how of someone who's been down this road before.

I used it on a 130 gal..........but the GE works well too......just dive in and do it....it's not a steep learning curve...

chefrob1027
05-30-2016, 10:43 AM
These are the things I was looking for. Again, I was prepared to break down the whole tank and strip it ALL and put it all back together. And as a tank this large needs thicker glass, my main concern was that the normally used GE 1 or RTV 108 would not be strong enough on the structural seal. I have both GE 1 and RTV 108 on hand as I've done numerous tanks but nothing even half this size.

So I will clean the inner silicone and the void in the structural seal, acetone it. Fill void with GE 1, cure for 24 hours. Continue as planned with complete reseal of inner tank seams with GE 1. 5 days cure time, test fill 5 days.

I appreciate the clarity...