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Thread: Structural Joint sealant for 120

  1. #1

    Structural Joint sealant for 120

    Hello, so I acquired a 120 gal for free with the mention that it needed a reseal. Upon further inspection most of the bottom structural seal is missing so I'm looking to completely dismantle the glass and build it over again. My original plan was to use RTV 108, as I planned to just redo the entire inner seal but as I've never done a structural seal like this before I'm curious to know if I'll need something with a stronger bond to hold the glass in place then continue with the original plan. This is an older 6x2x2 120 with approx 1/2 glass on the outer panels I haven't personally taken measurements yet as it started to rain while i was stripping silicone today. But any help here from you DIY guys and gals would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    I broke down and built a new 100 gallon that dropped as I was trying to work it up the steps by myself. The front pane cracked. I used GE silicone #1. I used the trim pieces to make sure I had everything square and then clamps to hold it tight to cure. I was pretty much a newbie back then. I'd never even resealed a tank before. It is now 13 years later and the tank is still holding water.

    I understand that there is a stronger silicone than GE #1. I don't know what it's called. It may be what you plan to use.

  3. #3
    I haven't had to do a tank this large before so I want to be sure before I do it. I was thinking RTV in joints and aquarium silicone on inside seams. There isn't much info out there about doing structural joints unfortunately

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    I think you will be fine with GE silicone #1 but if spending more money will make you feel more secure, go for it.

  5. #5
    My concern is with GE 1 being a sealant, not an adhesive. RTV 108 on the other hand is said to be both. And I'm all for bargain shopping, since I've built my whole hatchery with second hand tanks and DIY projects. But if a few extra bucks saves a huge headache and thousands of dollars in fish and equipment. Cause we know it's never a convenient fail of a large tank. This is why I'm looking for this so have done this before, I have but on a much smaller tank, largest being a 36 bow front.

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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by chefrob1027 View Post
    My concern is with GE 1 being a sealant, not an adhesive. RTV 108 on the other hand is said to be both. And I'm all for bargain shopping, since I've built my whole hatchery with second hand tanks and DIY projects. But if a few extra bucks saves a huge headache and thousands of dollars in fish and equipment. Cause we know it's never a convenient fail of a large tank. This is why I'm looking for this so have done this before, I have but on a much smaller tank, largest being a 36 bow front.

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
    I've used this with good success....
    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/cnt...of-Sealant.htm
    Jon
    He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which.
    - Douglas Adams

    http://www.mugwump-fish-world.com/index.php

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Mugwump View Post
    I've used this with good success....
    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/cnt...of-Sealant.htm
    Thank you Mudwump,
    Are you speaking of the Outer or inner seal? Something this large? I'm sorry I'm a bit new to this large a tank so I just want to be sure that the adhesive is solid. I'm not completely sure if it matters by tank size or if it's all the same and the glass takes the majority of the pressure. Call me a newbie if you'd like I'm just looking for the know how of someone who's been down this road before.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by LizStreithorst View Post
    I think you will be fine with GE silicone #1 but if spending more money will make you feel more secure, go for it.
    It's what I use and with very good results too..... I have never found the need to undo the glass-to-glass seal since this does the job on tanks with leaks; i.e. broken seals.

  9. #9
    It's missing half the joint seal and inner seal, it was asked in an out building so it was all dry rotted

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  10. #10
    Use what you are most comfortable using. Let the silicone cure for 24 hrs, fill the tank with water and let it sit for a week or two until you're comfortable putting the tank in place. I don't understand why you're stressing so. I replaced a side panel on a 120 twice. It always sprung a leak. Then I examined the replacement glass. It had one soft edge and one hard square edge. I reversed the panel on my third try. tank has been holding water ever since. Trust me, this is not a big deal. I can't come hold your hand through the rebuild because I live in Mississippi.

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